1 Jeep, 2 explorers, 3 days, 30 ghost towns… and 2 rattlesnakes (Part 1)

I had my first big ghost town trip of 2022 and started the season off with a bang. Unfortunately, we had to throw the journey together at the last minute but it turned our great. I realized I had a rare free weekend, and the weather forecast was fantastic, so I called my friend Austin of Nevada Expeditions and said we needed a ghost town trip.

We planned the trip in days, and we were fortunate to secure reservations. We debated where to head, and the Mizpah tempted me in Tonopah. But, I needed to explore counties farther east for my new project, so we decided to head to Eureka and Lander counties. I love traveling with Austin; he is like a cool younger cousin, even though I am his mom’s age.

Eastgate (Gibraltar Gate)

Why take the usual route when there are sites to explore off the beaten path? So Austin directed us to the old highway 50 instead of the modern Highway 50.

We followed the old Overland road, which is the true loneliest road, and we saw only one other vehicle. The first stop on our trip was Eastgate, which the Overland Stage and Freight used until 1876. The station became a store and gas station for the Lincoln Highway until Highway 50 was re-routed.

Carroll Station

Carroll was established in 1910 after discovering gold, and the town was large enough for a post office from 1911-to 1914. The current building was relocated from Lake Tahoe in 1925. Carrol Station served travelers until 1967 when the road was re-routed.

Clifton

Following the discovery of silver outside of Austin, Clifton was founded in 1863. The town grew to 500 residents and had services, including a Wells Fargo office, boarding houses, hotels, restaurants, and stores.

In 1880, Clifton became the terminus for the Nevada Central Railway, and a turntable was installed. The railroad operated into the 1930s. A 40-stamp mill overlooks the turntable—a freight road connected to nearby Austin.

Diamond City and Mill

Hmmm, which road to take. We encountered a few roads that seemed to parallel each other. Diamond City was a last-minute add-on. My friend CC told me the charcoal kilns were a must-see; since there was a mill and ghost town close by, we had to explore.

Although silver was discovered in 1864, major mining did not occur until two years later. A smelter was constructed in 1873 to process ore from Austin. A post office operated in 1874 as White Pine, then transferred to Eureka in 1881. The smelting was abandoned in the mid-1870s, and the post office closed in 1884.

Chinese Kilns

Multiple kilns dot the hillsides around Diamond City. Austin had looked at them on Google Earth and mapped out a route. Unfortunately, many of the roads had deteriorated to ATV only. Our determination was rewarded at Chinese Kiln.

Chinese laborers constructed the kiln in c1869. Each firing utilized five acres of timber and produced 1400 bushels of charcoal used in the mills. The kiln is in amazing shape, and unlike many others, you can walk inside. The charcoal smell continues to permeate the kiln.

We had fun playing with the echo. You could move a foot and change the resonations.

Eureka

Colonnade Hotel

After a long day, we headed to our home for the night, the historic 1880 Colonnade Hotel. Mike and Denice own the landmark hotel and have restored and updated it into an Airbnb. Mike and I have followed each other online, so I have watched the restoration progress.

As soon as I planned to visit Eureka, I knew the Colonnade was the one place I wanted to stay. We were fortunate and secured the room. Wow, that is all I can say! Mike and Denice thought of everything. Our suite was an open concept two-story. It had a super comfortable bed (a futon for Boy Wonder, with the young pain-free back). The office area all the high-tech goodies, and a gorgeous bathroom. The hi-light was the original hotel neon sign over the bed.

They even provided a selection of yummy goodies, water and juice, and a coffee station including Keurig, French press, teas, hot cider, and even oatmeal. The accommodations are exceptional, with a balance of history and modern conveniences.

Eureka Underground

I have heard rumors about the underground tunnels of Eureka, so they were high on my list to investigate. Fortunately, Mike had access and gave us a private tour of the tunnels.

Eureka’s underground tunnels are different from other underground tunnels, like Pendelton. First off, they are huge! Twenty feet high, twenty feet wide, and sixty feet long. Photos don’t do them justice. They are almost impossible to photograph between the lighting, size, and multiple chambers.

The quality of construction and artistry is impressive. Reinhold Sadler spared no expense in building the tunnels in the 1880s. They connected his home and store initially, so he would not have to brave the weather and smoke from smelting. Later, they expanded under much of the Eureka. The tunnels transported goods to restaurants and hotels from the breweries.

The tunnels may have been used during prohibition, the Colonnade had a still in the basement, which produced some of the best whisky in the county. Chinese workers may have also used the tunnels as Chinatown in what is now the parking lot of the Colonnade.

The tunnels served another purpose, a 450 plant marijuana farm. The owner tapped into electricity from the street lights, so authorities didn’t realize the large power usage. He may have gotten away with the illegal grow operation, but the skunk smell from the tunnels gave him away.

Night Owls

After checking in, and our tour of the underground caves, we headed to the Owl Club to participate in a local popular activity, enjoying a cocktail at the historic bar. I don’t frequent bars and have no idea what to order, so Austin got me an old-fashioned with vanilla bourbon.

Eureka Depot

We woke early on Saturday, ready to explore Eureka County. On Mike’s recommendation, we headed to Eureka Depot. I love coffee and tea but can’t tolerate caffeine (insert sad face). So we talked with the excellent staff and owner of the tea house, and they suggested a “Shalbi’s Tea,” basically a spiced chai latte created by one of their clients.
We thought breakfast would be from a gas station and were delighted to find the coffee shop also makes breakfast and lunch. The egg, Canadian bacon, and avocado croissant sandwich were great ways to start the morning.

We were so impressed that we returned for lunch and iced drinks. I did not expect this level of food in a small town. I had the lunch special, a brisket sandwich with pickled onions and jalapenos, and horseradish.

Tannehill Cabin

The cabin is the oldest home in Eureka, built in the 1860s. Later, it served as a store.

The Cemetery of Many Fences

My friend CC always has excellent ideas, and he suggested we visit the old hospital and children’s cemetery. We named it “The Cemetery of Many Fences,” as we had to go through three separate fences to reach the graves.

We discovered it was not a children’s cemetery but Eureka’s Jewish cemetery. Although, sadly, the graves were primarily children. Some parts of the “good old days” weren’t so good.

Vanderbilt

Our original itinerary for the day was to hit a few places around Eureka and then head to northern Nye County to visit our big planned destinations, Park Canyon and Ophir. However, we were having such a great time in Eureka that we decided to spend most of our day in the area and backtrack Sunday to Nye.

We almost dropped Vanderbilt off the trip, and I’m so glad we didn’t! The town not only had terrific mill ruins, but Austin explored with his drone and found the 1870s town itself, which had multiple structures. The town was relatively large and included several stores, boarding houses, a post office, and a blacksmith.

As Eureka became the primary center for the region, Vanderbilt declined and was dissolved in 1876. However, the Geddes mine and mill operated until 1885, and the post office name was changed to Geddes.

Vanderbilt has multiple structures with the fireplace remaining. Many still have the rod they would use to hang cooking pots over the fire.

Vanderbilt is not well known and has tons of ruins; I can’t believe we almost missed this treasure!

Prospect

Prospect grew in 1885 to support local mines. By 1893, the town had fifty residents, and a post office was awarded. Boarding houses and a smelter were built in the early 1900s. But, as mines played out, the town was ghosted.

Prospect is spread over the hill and has multiple ruins, including the unique rail system covered by snow shed.

Good mom, bad mouth

I am pretty much the same in person as online. I always have a story, I can find humor in almost anything, and I love to teach and help people. The one difference I have to admit is that I I have a bit of a potty mouth. Usually, I keep it to myself and my close friends. But sometimes, it comes out.

I wanted a picture in the aerial tram cart. I was careful going in and noted a bar was sticking up. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice that one bar section stuck up farther. On the way out, my toe caught, and I went flying. My camera sailed through the air and thankfully landed in the soft dirt and grass.

Unfortunately, I was not so fortunate. My hand hit a rock, right where I was recovering from an abscess from a thorn that hitched a ride home from Santa Clara in my finger. Both knees and shins landed on a pile of hard, seasoned wood. Anyone within a mile probably heard my foul language. I don’t know if sailors or Marines swear more; I’m pretty sure I would have made both of them proud. It has been a week and a half, and my shin and knees are still scraped and bruised green and yellow.

Croesus Mine

The drone came in handy at Croesus. There was no road leading to the mill, the hill was steep with precarious footing. As I was still hobbling after my fall, I sat in the air conditioned Jeep and sent up the drone.

Part II

In the next installment, we visit the amazing Park Canyon and Ophir, along with thirteen more ghost towns!

Park Canyon will always be remembered as my first time surprising a rattler and having it express it’s dissaproval.

5-24-2022

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