Just what the Dr. ordered: a good friend, ghost towns and a great meal and drink!
Honey Badger’s new engine needs to be broken in before her first big trip, so I met Nevada Expeditions in Virginia City. We visited some well-known sites, but also little-known ghost towns and cemeteries.
Virginia City
VC is always fun to drive around or wander the old boardwalk sidewalks. There must be a small inversion, it was warmer in the Comstock than in Carson City.
According to local lore, a miner wanted a house with many windows. He built a beautiful white house with windows on all sides. The man had made at least one enemy in his time in Virginia City. Another miner purchased the adjacent lot and moved a house to the property, situating it on the boundary. The home was next to the white house… right next to the white house, blocking any light or airflow.
The Chollar Mine is always a fun tour. Learn about my visit and the history of the Chollar Mine.
Five Mile House
During the Silver Rush, roads were very difficult and time-consuming to construct, especially in mountainous areas around the Comstock Lode. Nevada Territory lacked the resources to build and maintain the infrastructure. Between 1861 and 1864, Nevada awarded toll road franchises to individuals or groups who bid to construct roads. In return for their investment and continued maintenance, travelers compensated the owners with tolls.
On November 29, 1861, the Nevada Territorial Legislature granted a franchise to Geiger and Co. to construct a toll road linking Truckee Meadows to Virginia City. The route was dangerous but the most direct route linking Reno to Virginia City and the Comstock Lode. Davison M. Geiger and John H. Tilton began road construction in 1862. The road, along with several toll stations, was opened for commerce in 1863.
Five Mile House sat at the top of the grade, earning it the alternate name Summit House. Teamsters enjoyed hanging out at the station. The station is gone but you can see the old toll road.
Lousetown
North of Virginia City was another station stop on the Virginia City to Stone & Gates crossing Lousetown. A small town grew around the station, serving travelers, including repair shops for wagons. Lousetown became known for a racetrack, crooked gambling and boxing fights that were illegal in Virginia City.
As Geiger Grade grew in popularity, Lousetown declined. Lousetown was not named for an infestation of lice but a plat on the name Louisa Town. Portions of the old toll road and a foundation remain.
Cider House
Originally, we thought of eating at Cafe del Rio, but it is closed early in the week. Oh darn, I guess we need another trip!
Thankfully, our other favorite was open Cider House. It recently moved to C Street into Canvas Cafe. The owners are the same and the food is as delicious as ever. I ordered a steak salad with blue cheese. The owner, Dustin, talked us into the key lime pie, which was delicious! I only ate the filling and topping, and avoided the yummy gluten-packed crust, so that counts as healthy, right?
Delta Saloon
The Delta Saloon reopened in 2019 after the explosion damaged the historic building. They recently opened a steakhouse, so we stopped in for a drink. They make a killer old-fashioned! The Delta Saloon looks amazing and the famous Suicide Table is back. I will have to go back one night to try the new steakhouse.
American City & West Comstock
After lunch, we headed down the hill to the old site of American City and Comstock. At one point, American City thought it would be the big city and even the state capitol of Nevada. The town grew to include hotels, stores and a post office, which opened in 1866.
In the 1920s, a new mill brought life back to the flat, and the small town of Comstock developed. Comstock had a post office from 1923 to 1927, not long after the mill closed.
Austin found a map of a townsite of Rock Island at that same location. I love finding ECV markers and there were two!
Old Catholic Cemetery
Having a little more sunlight, we decided to try and find the Old Catholic Cemetery. It took a few tries but was totally worth it! There were so many old graves that we will have to go back and survey the site better.
Cathy Koos says
i live “over the hill” in Fiddletown CA and we have an American Flat over here — any idea on how they were named?
I have eaten at Cafe del Rio (excellent!) and will have to try the Cider House!
I always enjoy your posts,
Cathy Koos
Tami says
I love the Gold Country! I spent many summers there growing up as my Grandparents always had a place in Murphys, Angels Camp or Arnold. I haven’t been to Fiddletown so will try on a future trip.
From a quick serach, Fiddletown was named after settlers from Missouri who played the fiddle when they didn’t have water to work the gold. I thought it was associated with a fiddle, but you never know!
Anonymous says
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Tami says
Ahhh, thanks that made my morning!
Larry Hanna says
Thanks for sharing. I need to check out the Chollar Mine tour sometime
Tami says
Thanks for checking it out. The Chollar Mine tour is fun.
Barbara Guerin says
You make the “same old, same old” new and exciting. I can’t wait to go back to Virginia City and see it through your eyes.
Tami says
Thank you, that is such a meaningful comment to me.
John says
Is the old concrete mill structure still at American Flats? As a kid we used to have water balloon fights on hot summer moon lite nights. We had super soakers, Giant Hypo Sprayers & stashes of water balloons (Did you know you can refill a small water balloons on the fly with empty dish soap dispensers? (The nipple fits perfectly :)). We were stupid crazy teens having a great/dangerous time :). The structure and the graffiti was amazing including a 4 story “stairway to heaven” :). OTOH That multi level concrete structure was crumbling badly in the 70s, There were holes that went 4+ stories down in the middle of the floor. It’s actually amazing nobody that I ever heard of got injured there. Fun to explore though :).
FWIW that primarily silver processing plant used Sodium Chloride (a less poisonous version of it’s brother Potassium Chloride) There were left over bags of the stuff in one area. No one ever got sick or died.
I thank you for chronicling This area’s rich past with wonderful pictures and info. Cheers.
Tami says
Thanks for all that information.
Sadly, that was destroyed about a decade ago. I think it was following the death of someone on an ATV.
Chuck says
What’s the story on Honey Badger’s new engine?
Tami says
She has her 3rd replacement engine. The first replacement had issues about a year in, blow by on two cylinders. The second one was the timing cover bolts pulled out when they installed the engine. The third one is the charm.
As soon as I got home with the third one, they denied labor on the first replacement as it was dusty, and they thought dust got in the engine, causing the issues. Took it for smoke testing which showed no issues. Got home and ready to go on a trip and the engine light went on. Not wanting to risk the warranty on the engine, she went back to the shop didn’t go on the trip, turns out is was the radiator fan. Fingers crossed everything is working well now! I’m trying to drive her under some different circumstances to break in the engine before I head south in a few weeks.