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Steptoe City & Lost Buried Treasure

August 13, 2024 8 Comments

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

Las Vegas may be known as “Sin City,” but it is not Nevada’s original town of ill repute. Sin cities once dotted Nevada. While company towns provided miners with basic needs, the outlying settlements filled those needs the companies considered less than moral. Three of these sin towns formed outside the company town of McGill. While the two never grew beyond their original purpose, Steptoe City survived for almost fifty years before becoming a ghost town.

While Steptoe City was the more respected of the trio of sinful towns, it has its fill of colorful stories, including murder and lost buried treasure.

McGill

McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

In 1872, John Cowger started a ranch in Steptoe Valley. William Neil McGill and partner Nevada governor Jewett Adams took over the ranch in 1886, growing it into one of the largest cattle ranches in Nevada. A post office opened in 1891.

McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned
Main Street McGill

In 1906, the Steptoe Valley Mining and Smelter Company constructed a large smelter to process copper ore from Ely and Ruth. Initially a tent town, the company laid out a town and built substantial homes for offices, mine executives and skilled laborers. They built stores, boarding houses, a bank and a saloon. The company did not allow gambling or prostitution.

McGill Northern Nevada Railway Depot

The smelter ramped up production during WWI. The Northern Nevada Railway reached McGill to ship ore between the mines and mill. For a time, the population of McGill exceeded the county seat of Ely.
McGill had its ups and downs relating to mining, but the mill continued to operate until 1983. A decade later, the smelter was dismantled. Less than 1,000 call McGill home today. Many of the beautiful buildings survived and are now private residences.

McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned McGill Concentrator 1910
Postcard of the McGill concentrator c 1910

Sin Towns

Ely White Pine County Nevada NV brothel red light district prostitute cribs
Prostitute Cribs in Ely

Company towns provided employees housing, food, shopping, recreation, and even hospitals. Many did not allow activities they viewed as immoral or, more importantly, would interfere with a productive labor force. Outside of company towns, “Sin towns” developed. These settlements provided miners with what the company towns didn’t: booze, gambling, and women.

Prostitute cribs Goldfield Nevada
Prostitute and Cribs in Goldfield
(Photo credit: Historic Places in Central Nevada Adjacent to Nellis Air Force Base. Permission from author Allen Metscher)

McGill had not just one but three sin towns: Steptoe City, Smelterville, Ragdump. The popular settlements offered saloons, gambling halls, dance halls, and cribs where prostitutes flaunted their offerings

Newspaper article Rag Joints is discard
White Pine News Weekly Mining Review
East Ely, Nevada · Sunday, August 23, 1914

Smelterville and Ragdump didn’t grow past their dubious beginnings. Following public disapproval of the town’s immoral activities, they shut down in 1914. Ragdump is now an auto-wrecking business, and tailings cover Smelterville.

Ely White Pine County Nevada NV brothel red light district prostitute cribs
Ely White Pine County Nevada NV brothel red light district prostitute cribs
Transoms above cribs in Ely

Steptoe City

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

Steptoe Valley and a small town were settled in 1868. They were named in honor of Colonel E. J. Steptoe, who fought in the Mexican-American and Indian Wars. A post office opened in Steptoe City in 1893, with William Campbell as the first postmaster.


Lt. Col. Edward Jenner Steptoe
Lt. Col. Edward Jenner Steptoe
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Within a year, Steptoe City included a school, Miner’s Union Hall, saloons, dance halls and a red-light district. In the early 1900s, mine owner Richard Brim purchased lots in Steptoe City and planned a townsite a mile outside McGill. Soon, the settlement was considered a “Lively lead mining camp.”

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

During the construction of McGill, many workers lived in several hundred houses in Steptoe City. Steptoe City was different from its sister sin settlements. It grew beyond its dubious purpose. However, Dr. Hovenden, a company physician of 40 years, described Steptoe City as “the toughest little camp in the state.”

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

At its peak in the 1920s, 150 people called Steptoe City home. In 1926, a fire destroyed much of the town. A handful of residents hung on, and the town continued to provide housing for the overflow from McGill.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

As housing became available in McGill and Ely, residents left Steptoe City, relocating substantial homes or selling and abandoning smaller ones. By 1948, only fifty houses remained most vacant and near collapse. A handful of hardy residents remained in Steptoe City into the 1970s.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

Mrs. Ella’s Rentals

Mrs. Ella Moore assumed control of many Steptoe Cities shacks, renting a furnished three-room house for $10 monthly. Along with her boarding house, Ella earned $500 a month. Billy Thomas, nightwatchman of the Kennecott Mill, was also a landlord, renting homes to mill workers while they waited for other housing.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned
Steptoe City 1949
(Nevada State Journal Sunday, February 27, 1955)

Those residing in Steptoe City in the 1940s described it as living in the 1890s. Lanterns provided light, heating came from harvesting pinion and mountain mahogany, the only restrooms were outdoor privies and bathing was done once a week by the stove. The one thing in abundance in the rustic town was water, provided by a pipeline from Duck Creek to McGill, with the pipe bisecting Steptoe City.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

Mrs. Ella Moore walked new tenants through the vacant homes where they could select furnishings for their rental. Along the way, she relayed Steptoe’s stories. In the old Miner’s Hall, which Moore converted into an apartment building, a tenant’s illegal moonshine still exploded, burning down the structure. In one shack, she found poor Bill with his throat slit. She kept the knife the murderer used, offering to show it to visitors.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned

The winter of 1948-49 was particularly difficult. Only one resident with a Jeep could navigate the roads from McGill to Steptoe City. Most residents moved, leaving only Casey Jones and her husband, five elderly tenants and two Navajo families. For Christmas, Casey took her bachelor neighbors mince pie, homemade bread and chokecherry jelly. After the long winter, the Jones decided they had enough and headed to warmer weather in Southern California.

Steptoe City McGill Ghost Town Ely White Pine County Ghost Town Nevada NV abandoned
Steptoe City 1949
(Nevada State Journal Sunday, February 27, 1955)

Old Leo’s Lost Buried Treasure

Buried Gold
(Photo credit: CNET)

One of Mrs. Ella Moore’s stories was the tale of Old Leo’s Gold.

Luna Moon Goddess
Luna the moon goddess
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Old Leo was a colorful character who resided in Steptoe City. Living as a miser, he amassed several thousand dollars of gold. Described as eccentric, Old Leo prayed to Luna, the Moon Goddess.

Luna the Moon Goddess
Drawing c 1630 – c 1673

Old Leo believed Luna spoke to him, advising him to bury his gold. If Old Leo followed her directions and ate three tablespoons of dirt from the burial site each day, his small fortune would increase, making him a wealthy man.

One moonlit night, Mrs. Ella Moore followed Old Leo up Ghost Mountain to a hidden cave. Spotting his tail, Old Leo became incensed, and Mrs. Moore wisely returned home, never learning the location of the gold.

Mountains above Steptoe City

We may never know if Old Leo’s fortune increased while underground. Luna failed to mention to Old Leo that eating three tablespoons of dirt a day would also result in his own burial. Mrs. Ella Moore searched Old Leo’s cabin after his death, only finding a $20 gold piece.

$20 Gold piece
(Photo credit: Golden Eagle Coins)

Treasure hunters and Boy Scouts spent their summers searching for Old Leo’s Gold, to no avail. Old Leo’s Gold is another of Nevada’s lost treasures.

WANT MORE GHOST TOWNS?

For information on more than five hundred ghost towns in Nevada & California, visit the Nevada Ghost Towns Map or a list of Nevada ghost towns.

Learn about how to visit ghost towns safely.

Nevada Ghost Towns Map

References


References

  • Carlson, Helen S. Nevada Place Names: A geographical dictionary. University of Nevada Press, 1974. Page 223-4.
  • Gamett, James and Stanley W. Paher. Nevada Post Offices: An illustrated history. Nevada Publications, 1983. Page 122.
  • Hall, Shawn. Romancing Nevada’s Past: Ghost towns and historic sites of Eureka, Lander and White Pine Counties. University of Nevada Press, 1994. Pages 191-192.
  • Myrick, David F. Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California: Volume 1. University of Nevada Press, 1990. Pages 100, 113, 114, 117, 134.
  • Nevada Department of Wildlife: Steptoe Valley Wildlife Management Area
  • Nevada Expeditions: McGill
  • Nevada State Journal, by Casey Jones. Steptoe City was a ghost town that didn’t give up the ghost. February 27, 1955.
  • Online Nevada Encyclopedia: Ripetown
  • US Gen Web: White Pine Nevada ghost town sites
  • Wikipedia: Edward Steptoe
  • Wikipedia: Steptoe Valley

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Comments

  1. Ken says

    August 14, 2024 at 9:42 pm

    Enjoyed your story.

    Reply
    • Tami says

      August 15, 2024 at 7:04 am

      Thanks, that was a fun find. I’m recording it this morning for Radio Goldfield.

      Reply
  2. Anonymous says

    August 15, 2024 at 7:09 am

    This was a connection to my past living in McGill,thanks for this article!

    Reply
    • Tami says

      August 15, 2024 at 1:25 pm

      Welcome, and I’m glad you enjoyed it. I liked McGill; It’s such a nice-looking town with a cool history.

      Reply
  3. ROGER PETERSON says

    August 20, 2024 at 4:15 pm

    Tami, Love your ghost town pictures and stories! Keep them coming!

    Reply
    • Tami says

      August 20, 2024 at 5:12 pm

      Thanks, this became one of my favorites!

      Reply
  4. Scott says

    September 7, 2024 at 1:21 pm

    Great story. I like your photo illustration of the three spoons of dirt too.

    Reply
    • Tami says

      September 7, 2024 at 2:41 pm

      Thank you, I gave my daughter “creative control.”

      Reply

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Tami Force NVTami

Hi, I’m Tami, and I have been exploring ghost towns, mining camps, and back roads for 30 years. If you love seeing and learning about some of the more unusual ghost towns and locations in Nevada and beyond, you came to the right place! My goal is to photograph, document, and share this amazing history.  Come join me along with my dog, family, and friends on our explorations!

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