Nevada Museum Madness

Nevada has a resource many don’t think about-museums. In true Nevada spirit, some are traditional brick-and-mortar museums, while others are Nevada originals: unique, outdoors and wild.

Last week I visited four Museums: Ordnance, Mineral County, Central Nevada, and International Car Forest of the Last Church. In addition, I explored Tonopah and Goldfield, which are like open-air museums. In my free time, I researched who was the Mizpah’s Lady in Red and the “Unknown Man died eating library paste” likely the most famous headstone in Nevada.

Ghost Towning

I headed to central Nevada for an interview with Radio Goldfield on their popular Friday night live show, Carlshopshow. On Monday, we met to discuss my hosting a regular spotlight on history and travel in central Nevada. Old Fart #1, OF#1, from my trip to Lesser-known Ghost Towns of Mono County, had a free weekend and joined in the fun. The schedule gave us a few days of downtime, providing an excellent excuse to wander Goldfield and Tonopah and to stop at all the wonderful museums we miss when off-roading and exploring ghost towns.

Hawthorne, Nevada Ordnance Museum

Don’t laugh; the Ordnance Museum in Hawthorne has been on my wish list for years. Before Covid, I talked with friends about creating a ladies group where we do different activities. I thought each woman picked a restaurant, an outdoor activity, and a unique activity of their choice. I planned for us to go to Hawthorne to visit the museum. Unfortunately, Covid happened, and museums closed. Once things re-opened, I was on an off-road trip every time I passed Hawthorne. The few times I tried to stop, they were closed.

The museum is impressive! I am not a military weapons buff, but the displays are fascinating. They had ordinances from every branch of service, along with displays on military life. The docents are what make the museum. They were so knowledgeable and helpful, most retired military.

The mission of the Hawthorne ordnance Museum is to collect, preserve and exhibit in a patriotic and educational environment, those items that have had a significant impact on the freedom of our country.  We focus on the Hawthorne Ammunition Depot for its on-going contribution and support of the United States Armed Forces.

Hawthorne Ordanance Museum

The Hawthorne Ordnance Museum is free to visit but accepts donations. Call for current hours at 775-945-5400 or email at ordnancemuseum@yahoo.com.

Mineral County, Nevada Museum

Welcome to the wild west as it was. Explore the world of gold mines and boom towns

Mineral County Museum

The Mineral County Museum is like stepping back into the history of my beloved ghost towns. The facility is full of every imaginable piece of past life. You could spend an entire day and still not see it all. My favorite was the water pipes from Aurora. I had no idea they were hollowed-out wood beams with metal connectors.

The Mineral County Museum is open from 11 am-4 pm Monday through Saturday. 775-945-5142.

Hawthorne Chinese Cemetery

As it was Lunar New Year, I stopped at the Hawthorne Chinese Cemetery to pay my respects. Sadly, the memorial has been damaged since my visit last summer. I hope it was from natural events, not human-caused ones.

I also planned to stop at the Mineral County Chinese Grave but missed the headstone. I asked at the Mineral County Museum, and they didn’t have the original headstone on display.

Show time!

This is KGFN, Radio Goldfield, the Voice of the Old West!

Friday was my interview with Radio Goldfield. It was fun to talk to Carl but a little intimidating as it was my first time on the radio. The show was one hour and interspersed with music, so we didn’t have much time to talk. I will see if I can get a copy of the interview.

My friend Bo, the Mayor of the ghost town of Tybo, is friends with Carl, so he drove me to Goldfield. Following the interview, we headed back to Tonopah. Bo stopped to introduce me to Maria; she was so sweet and made us a delicious dinner. Thank you again, Maria!

Let’s make a deal

I often book the “Romance Package” at the Mizpah. It doesn’t cost much more and sometimes is even less expensive. You get candies, wine glasses, and a Lady in Red wine bottle. I think you get a better room with the package, this time I had the 5th-floor corner room which was large and bright.

I started thinking about room number 502, and bells started going off in my head. After checking with a friend, I learned I was indeed in the reportedly haunted room. I started researching the Lady in Red. She is said to be a prostitute murdered on the 5th floor. The hauntings didn’t bother me, but the thought of a young woman having her life tragically ended, possibly in my room, creeped me out. I started thinking, who was the Lady in Red?

I made a deal.

We are both women and are always taking care of others. I have taken care of my family and my mom, who had surgery. I’m tired. Let me sleep for the nights I’m here, no hauntings or creeping me out. I will tell your story as best as possible, not the hauntings, but the story of who you were. 

Tired Tami

Tonopah

Saturday morning, I woke in a funk. I had slept well, maybe due to my deal with the Lady in Red, but I was unmotivated to do much. I think this winter has been stressful and I was worn out. After a yummy and filling breakfast at the Pitman Cafe at the Mizpah, we debated what to do. The temperature wasn’t too cold, but the wind made it seem frigid. We started driving aimlessly around Tonopah, stopping wherever something looked interesting.

We drove up and down all the streets on the west side of Main Street, stopping at houses, abandoned buildings, and a power plant. Tonopah has an excellent driving guide; I picked up a copy at the library.

John Kirchen Memorial

John Kirchen was the Tonopah Extension Mining company manager between 1906 and 1930. The memorial was placed over the Denver Load, the site of his last silver discovery. Johns’s asked were scattered over the location in 1931, as were his wife’s ashes in 1935.

Tonopah’s New Cemetery

I saw the angel at a distance and took a picture for my sister, Nicole Force, who writes magical westerns.

We noticed a pole with a pulley on top. We couldn’t figure out what the purpose was.

Unknown Buildings

Below the new cemetery and before the Clown Motel are two abandoned stone buildings at the north end of Tonopah. They sit right off the road. Allen Metcscher at the Central Nevada Museum said these are for dynamite storage for stores in town. Instead of storing explosives in town, it was on the outskirts.

Tonopah Historic Cemetery

The first burial at the Tonopah Cemetery was in 1901. It is a popular spot for visitors, ghost hunters and those staying at the Clown Motel. A walking guide is available at the entrance. The most famous grave is Big Bill Murphy, a local hero who died in 1911, rescuing miners from the Belmont Mill fire.

Materson House

This beautiful and enormous house was built in 1908 by Dr. Masterson. It was also known as the Fred Chapman House, a mining engineer. It was a boarding house for most of its existence to tenants, including Judge Hatton.

There is a for sale sign on the house. I would love to return it to its glory days.

Unknown House

Nevada California Power Company

Southern California Edison built the substation in 1905, later known as to Sierra Pacific Power Company. NPM&MCo. stands for Nevada Power Mining & Milling Company, Tonopah’s early power company.

Barlett House

George Barlette built the house in 1907. The shingle-style residence is often seen on the northeast coast and is unusual in Nevada. Barlette became a U.S. Congressman but lost his money and house in the financial Panic of 1907. Knights of Colombus obtained the house to use as their hall.

Bartlette House has a long history of fruitless restoration attempts. One owner caused much of the damage seen today. He wanted to access the basement without going outside. Instead of cutting through the floor, he used dynamite. I wonder if “Hey yall, watch this!” was uttered.

Old House Web has a great article on the history of the Barlette House.

Raycraft House

Arthur Raycraft built this beautiful home in 1906. Arthur worked with radio signals as early as 1909. He created the first wireless news service in Nevada and was known as the “Father of Wireless.”

Wait, I recognize the name Arthur Raycraft from Slater’s Mine in the Pine Nut Mountains. That would mean we are distant relatives. I am so happy to see the house in beautiful shape; I wonder if the owners would let me see the inside as I’m family?

Tonopah House

I had to double back to see this amazing yard. The owners collected a fantastic amount of Nevada’s mining history.

I am in love with their old house that sits on their property. It makes me want to fix up our miner’s cabin. Please be respectful; this is private property.

Goldfield

Our Next stop was Goldfield. The day warmed, but the wind made it feel so cold my teeth hurt when I smiled. Of all the rural Nevada towns, I think Goldfield has one of the best historical societies. Driving through town is like a living museum; there is history everywhere. Unfortunately, I couldn’t pick up a Goldfield Walking Tour booklet, but we accessed it online. The guide has an astonishing twelve pages and 191 sites! It includes the location and history. Most, if not all, structures have corresponding plaque numbers.

Goldfield Pioneer Cemetery

Goldfield established the first cemetery in 1906. Originally the cemetery was in Goldfield proper, but the town expanded. Then, the Las Vegas and Tonopah Railroad Company arrived, placing their rails alongside the graveyard. They decided it would be bad for business for travelers to step off their trains into graves. So “Official Ghouls” dug up the graves in the middle of the night, moving them to the current Pioneer Cemetery location.

Virgil Erp, as in the Gunfight at the OK Corral, was buried in Goldfield, but his family relocated his remains to Oregon. Between 1907 and 1911, one hundred and fifty-four were buried at the cemetery.

The Pioneer Cemetery has numerous unusual headstones, at least by today’s standards. Headstones talk about aliases, strangulation and gunshots.

The headstone has faded but reads “Edward Hughes. November 27, 1909. Died at Esmerelda county jail, Goldfield, Nevada. Self-strangulation.” According to Fina-a-Grave, he was facing murder charges.

The most famous grave in Goldfield, possibly in Nevada, is “Unknown Man died eating library paste.”

Nothing is known about the man, but he stumbled into Goldfield, “nearly starved.” Reportedly, he found a jar of library paste in the trash and taking to a garage, where he consumed the contents. Library paste may seem like a strange item to eat, but it is made from flour. Unfortunately, it also contains alum, which is fatal in high quantities.

Goldfield West Side School

Goldfield West Side School was constructed in 1908. West Side School was one of four stone schools built during Goldfield’s boom years.

Between 1917 and 1920, it served as a mining school. Strangely, in 1931 it was a golf club factory. It is now the Goldfleid Library.

Historical Equipment Display Museum

Adjacent to the library, the Goldfield Chamber of Commerce has a display of equipment. It is an amazing collection, and every piece of equipment is labeled with its purpose and its origins.

Goldfield Walking Tour

It was so cold, so we turned the walking tour into a driving one. But, darn it, my cell phone died, as did my charger. We thought of grabbing an always amazing burger at the Dinky Diner but after our tour, we decided to head back to Tonopah.

Goldfield Bottle House

Southern Nevada Consolidated Telephone-Telegraph Company

The Nixon & Wingfield Block

In 1907 the Goldfield Consolidated Mines Company constructed two adjacent buildings.

Someone has a sense of humor, almost giving me a heart attack. I wonder if they have a hidden camera and, at their Christmas party, they laugh over people’s reactions to the mannequins in the window.

Sometimes it is the little details. For example, inset in the sidewalk is glass blocks, which allows light into the basement.

Sideboard Saloon

Someday I will get a good photograph of the saloon arch, but it has been difficult for me to photograph due to the lighting and the background.

Goldfield High School

The beautiful school is on my list to visit in the summer. The historical society has been preserving the 1907 structure. It was a twelve-room school and operated until 1953.

Court House

Goldfield Firehouse

E. A. Byler Bottle House

The well-known bottle house was built in 1905 by mining engineer Byler. He added a frame addition added in 1907. Building supplies were in short supply so creating builders used what was available. Bottle houses are a mix of layers of bottles surrounded by adobe.

I wonder what the significance of the triangle is.

Rickard House

“Tex” Rickard built this beautiful house in 1906. A former professional gambler and saloon owner, Tex moved to Goldfield after hearing about the big gold strike. With friends, he opened a large saloon and gambling hall. As he was single and preferred to eat out, the house did not contain a kitchen.

Durgan House

George Durgan, a mine superintendent, built this house in 1905. It is adjacent to the bottle house and has a bottle-lined walkway.

Brown Parker Garage Auto Company Garage

Subway station canopies

I have looked and looked for information on the iconic station canopies. Goldfield had five railroads but never a subway. No one seems to know how or why they appeared, but they are fun to photograph. If you have any information, I would love to answer this mystery!

Around Goldfield

Goldfield Hotel

The Goldfield Hotel is the most iconic feature of the town. Completed in 1908, it was the most elegant hotel in Nevada. Appointments included crystal chandeliers, mahogany trim, leather-covered seating and gilded accents. The 150 rooms, most with a private bathroom, had carpet, mirrors, and even a telephone. An on-site power plant provided steam heat.
The hotel was last used to house soldiers from Tonopah Army Airfield during WWII. Multiple remodel attempts have occurred, but the property is again up for sale.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

On the south end of Goldfield is one of the stranger sites in Nevada, a “car forest.”

The car forest is an open-air art gallery. Goldfield resident, Mike Rippee, set out to break the world’s record for a “car forest.” Chad Sort and Zak Sargent joined, and the three men were buried, stacked, and hung over forty vehicles. The vehicles act as a canvas for artists; their works constantly change.

Central Nevada Historical Museum

I can’t believe I never stopped at the Central Nevada Historical Museum. Pictures of their relocated historic buildings drew me in, but the exhibits make this a great stop.

Step into our past and explore the rich & colorful history of Central Nevada!

Central Nevada Museum

The “First Call Basket” is new to me. It was used to transport people to the mortuary. People have changed in one hundred years; I don’t think I could fit in the basket, never mind a man.

What makes the museum priceless is Allen Metscher. He, along with his brothers, dreamed of a historical museum. The trio collected artifacts and researched local mining and town history. Allen started the museum from the ground up, designing the building.

Allen gave us a private tour of the museum. He knows the use and history of everyting. The story of how the museum acquired each piece is almost as interesting as the displays. Over the years, through private and other museum donations, Allen has collected a fantastic array of things Tonopah and Coldfied.

Allen authored multiple books on local history in conjunction with the US Air Force. He gave me Historic Places in Central Nevada Adjacent to Nellis Air Force Base. It has information and photographs I haven’t seen before; I will update some articles. Thank you, Allen, but I forgot to have you sign it.

I look forward to remedying my oversite and spending more time with the Rock Star of Central Nevada History, Allen.

The Central Nevada Museum is open from 9 am to 5 pm, Tuesday through Saturday. Admission is free, and they accept donations.

Lady in Red

Sunday, I slept until an amazing hour of 7 am, then lazed in bed until 8. When I told my family, they were astonished; I’m usually up and going early in the morning. OF#1 had to work Monday and headed home, so I was alone for the day.

I read about Strawberry Hill in Nevada Magazine and decided to venture out for breakfast. It was scrumptious! I opted for the smaller french toast with eggs and bacon.

I was still in a funk, not bad, but unmotivated to do much. Mostly, it was cold! Temperatures were in the mid 30’s, but with the wind, I only wanted to curl up in bed. So, following breakfast, I headed back to my room with the plan of an early morning nap, something I rarely do.

A new mystery for me

I made a cup of tea, sat on the bed, and, holding up to my end of the deal, started researching the Lady in Red. The next thing I realized, it was noon. I had spent the morning studying and writing about the Mizpah, Tonopah and prostitution in Tonopah.

I had what was possibly the Lady in Red’s name, but I delayed researching her death until I had the rest of the story. Strangely, it was like waiting for dessert, saving the best for last. I stretched, brewed another cup of tea and set down to work. And found… nothing.

I tried everything I could think of; death certificates, burial records, and newspaper articles. I needed fresh eyes and inspiration, so I headed out to explore. My first destination was Tonopah’s Red Light District.

Red Light District

Due to town ordinance, Tonopah’s first red-light district was east of Main Street on Corona Avenue and Water Street.

I mapped out and explored the relocated Red Light District. According to a great article, “A History of Tonopah,” by Robert D. McCracken, the district bordered Main Street, Central Street, Oddie Avenue and Knapp Avenue. Tracing the boundary, the first thing that became apparent was the Mizpah was outside the district.

I wondered if some of the buildings I found were bars or cribs, small dwellings, where prostitutes, hmmm-entertained.

OF#1 checked in. I replied that I spent the afternoon mapping and photographing the Red Light District instead of watching the Superbowl. I loved the reply, “I really enjoyed that trip. You know I’m a good friend when I think it’s cool you have interest in prostitutes and dead people. 😄”

Belvada has a red light under the hotel. This was planned to be a speakeasy; I’m unsure if that is still in the works.

Bass Building

My “must see” on this trip was the Bass Building.

Albert and Anna Bass fascinate me. What keeps going through my mind is Albert and Anna had made their “comfortable fortune” and lived in the luxury of Tonopah. Yet the search for silver drove them into the isolated Nevada desert. In a time when modern conveniences like indoor plumbing, heat, and telephone were common, they chose to live under the proverbial rock “Cabin Under the Boulder.”

Tonopah Stargazing Park

Central Nevada is fantastic for watching the stars due to its small and dispersed population. Tonopah has one of the best stargazing parks, The Clair Blackburn Memorial Stargazing Park. The park was created for professional astronomers but is open to all. The park has four concrete tables and four concrete benches in the middle, giving GPS coordinates.

I love watching the stars while camping, or better yet, from my hot tub at home. The park is well-designed, clean and fenced. But, I’ll be honest; I don’t get it. The tables are sturdy, and the concrete pad is level and easier to navigate at night. I think the best star gazing and astrophotography is away from town, people and light. Still around Tonopah but farther out. The park is fenced, which makes this Nevada girl feel trapped. I want to learn astrophotography but in the desert, miles away from civilization. As Travel Nevada says, “Don’t fence me in.”

McKinney Tanks

I felt like driving and ran back to Mckinney Tanks as on my previous trip, I missed photographing the water system. Mckinney Tanks was one of my favorite stories of 2022, McKinney Tanks and the Case of the Vanishing Christmas Turkey.

Allen’s amazing book contains a chapter and pictures from McKinney Tank. I wrote and shared my article recently, but I will update it with new information. I am kicking myself for not returning to the hotel to grab the book before heading out of Tonopah. Guess where I will be headed next trip?

Nye County Courthouse

Nye County built the courthouse in Tonopah following the county seat relocating from Belmont. They built a modern courthouse north on the north end of Tonopah. The location may be one of a kind; to get from town to the courthouse, you must leave the county, venturing into Esmerelda County.

Tonopah Liquor Company

I will go into Tonopah Liquor Company someday, but I am not a big fan of bars, so I haven’t seen the inside.

Various houses

I wound my way around the east side of Tonopah, looking for access to Victor Shaft. No luck, but I found some cool abandoned buildings.

Superbowl Sunday

When I got back to Mizpah, the Superbowl was well underway. Darn it that means I missed my annual Superbowl kickoff Costco shopping trip. I explored the hotel, relaxed and grabbed dinner.

I guess I am nothing, if not predictable. Friends asked if I was going to have chicken fried steak for dinner. That was my plan, really it was. But the hotel reopened the Jack Dempsey dining room with a revamped menu. I missed my once time a year I eat chicken fried steak, but the shrimp, polenta and spicy Asian sauce were too enticing to resist. The dish was delicious; I am glad I shook up my routine. I might have to try and recreate it at home. Next visit, I need to stay at least two nights to have each dish.

Headed home

Monday, I met with Carl again, this time discussing my show. We bounced ideas about a format. I have a lot of work ahead of me. Let me know if you have any great ideas on names, catchphrases or format!

On the way home, I didn’t realize my phone had stopped receiving calls and texts. So I guess it is time for an upgrade. Thankfully Facebook messenger worked, and I connected with long-time follower Jim. Thank you, Jim, for lunch and the great conversation!
Leaving Yerington, I got one weird message from Hubby. He noticed my Garmin inReach said I hadn’t moved for hours. I think he was worried I ran into the Hills Have Eyes extras. I assured him I was on the way home, although it would take longer as Wilson Canyon was closed.
After recording some content, I should return to Goldfield and Tonopah in a few weeks. After this trip, I have a list of locations I want to visit.

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