Marked safe from Burning Man, playa mud and dysentery.
I didn’t want a big party for my 50th birthday, but several smaller events, including a Labor Day camping trip. Nevada Expeditions and I hit rain, cloudbursts, hail, lightning and even snow on the peaks. The storm made for beautiful pictures. It was chilly and challenging camping in the cold rain, but it was a great and memorable trip.
Burning Man
Burning Man attracts 75,000 people to the desert. It is supposed to be an art event, but from what I hear is more of a hedonistic free-for-all. This year it turned into a gigantic muddy mess, with vehicles trapped, no supplies, and dysentery running through the camps.
I’ll take the isolated Nevada desert and history any day over a festival and “peopley” event.
Middle of Nowhere
Our original plan for my birthday trip with Nevada Expeditions was to return to Birch Creek and visit the ghost towns we missed on our last trip with Stan Paher, the Godfather of Nevada ghost towns. Due to the impending weather, we debated where to go. Our schedules were busy so rescheduling wasn’t an option. We thought of heading south to Goldfield, but it seemed the storm would hit all of Nevada. We decided to chance the weather in Big Smoky and Monitor Valleys. As our previous camping site was on a creek at the mouth of a canyon, it wasn’t the best place with a threat of flash floods.
We headed out, not knowing where we would make base camp. I saw the sign for Toquima Cave, and we remembered they have a campground. I usually like throwing up a tent on undeveloped BLM land, but given the weather, there were benefits to an established campground. It worked out great; there was only one other campsite used, and they left, I assume, due to the weather.
The first night went well; we got camp set up and I cooked steak bites, potatoes and peppers. We relaxed and prepared to head out early the next morning.
The next night was another issue. That afternoon a major rain and lightning storm hit while we were in Manhatten. We got back to the camp to find everything drenched.
We debated if we should pack up or tough it out. The lightning had moved farther away and the rain decreased from a torrential downpour to a drizzle. It was decided if we could start a fire, we would stay. Austin amazingly got a great fire going while I deployed Honey Badgers bat-wing awning. It was hot dogs and smores for dinner.
The second night was one of the coldest night I’ve ever spent. I expected to wake to snow covering my tent. I slept in what seemed like a million layers: hat, scarf, baselayer, sun shirt, sweatshirt, down vest, leggings, fleece pants, and two pair of socks. I was in a 3-season sleeping bag, with several blankets. I don’t think it was the temperature, but the humidity and leaky tent made me so cold.
We spent three days exploring Big Smoky and Monitor Valleys. Stone House was the highlight of the trip. Our last stop was the 1860s ghost town, Amador. Working around the weather was interesting, like trying to land the drone when lightning and a cloudburst hit, but it made for some beautiful pictures. Below are some of the highlights my cell phone.
Kingston
Kington was having a BBQ for the volunteer fire department. They had a huge turnout; it was probably the event of the year. The steak and hamburger smelled delicious but as we had a late start and didn’t know where we were camping, we headed out.
Toquima Cave
Toquima cave was used by the Western Shoshone between 1,500 and 3,000 years ago. While many sites have petroglyphs, the cave has pictographs that are drawings instead of carvings. The pictographs are some of the best in the continent.
Potts Ranch
Oddly, this 1870s ranch in the middle of nowhere was the one place we could get cell service.
Diana’s Punchbowl
I hoped for better color when I flew the drone, but the shadows interfered. Diana’s Punchbowl is 600 feet in diameter. The water is 30 feet below the edge of the cauldron. The water ranges from 140 to 180 degrees so Diana’s Punchbowl is not a soaking hot spring.
The Monitor
Monitor Valley was named after the USS Monitor. We heard there was a geological feature that looked like the Monitor, thus the name. We didn’t know where the formation was, but I remembered the appearance as the ghost town of Monitor, California, was also named after the ship. As we drove into the valley, I looked off and knew this had to be the Monitor.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Springfield Mining District
The district was only active for one year, between 1875 and 1876.
One of the cloudburst
The weather would be sunny and warm, then the skies would darken out of nowhere, and a cloudburst drenched us. Sometimes the sun came out, and a cloudburst still hit!
Northumberland
Darn it, the road to the townsite was blocked. There was an interesting tram system outside of the gate.
Pine Creek
Pine Creek had a post office from 1873-1875 and again from 1879-1881. It is now a private ranch.
Stone House/Smith’s Station
Stone House has been high on my list to visit for a while. It was just a little windy!
The two-story station was built in the 1860s. It served the stage line from Austin to Belmont.
Belmont & East Belmont
As we had both been to Belmont and it is easily accessible, we didn’t spend much time in this amazing ghost town.
Breyfogle
A small camp grew following the discovery of gold. Little was produced and the camp soon faded.
East Manhatten
Not much is left of this mining camp aside from boilers.
White Caps
Manhattan
The lightning started in earnest while we were in Manhattan, so we only took a few photos out of the window.
Hercules
Who knows where were two Hercules ghost towns in Nevada? The other Hercules is in Churchill County.
We had a brief break in the storm and thankfully, Hercules wasn’t in a canyon.
Cape Horn Station
Cape Horn was an Overland Stage Station and possibly served the Pony Express.
Amador
Amador came to life in 1863. A town was laid out and soon had all the usual businesses. As ore played out, the town died by 1866.
Matt / Fly I-80 says
It’s incumbent on all of us respectful enjoyers of the Great Basin to flood (lol) the BLM with complaints about Burning Man. It’s time for that nonsense to end. It takes a special kind of idiot to be on a clay lakebed when there is even a minuscule chance of rain. If they like rain and irresponsibility they can relocate Burning Man to the Utah slot canyons or the Las Vegas flood tunnels for all I care. BLM Black Rock field office director is:
Andy Boerigter
5100 E Winnemucca Blvd
Winnemucca 89445
775-623-1500
Tami says
I would like to see a study on how much damage they do to the playa and Nevada. Coming home from the trip, I saw several burner bikes abandoned on the side of the highway.
I read one article saying they would continue with or without BLM permits, I’m not sure how that can happen.
Bill Moiarty says
Glad you’re OK and had a good trip.
Tami says
Thanks it was a great trip. It took some extra planning, but we were able to proceed safely.
Robert L Titus says
Thanks’ for the memories. We love that area and so much more to explore. Oh Happy Birthday
Tami says
There is so much to explore there. Two trips and we still only scratched the surface.
And thank you, it has been a great birthday! More to come including a ladies Jeep ghost towns and treats trip.
Robert L Titus says
P.S. as for being cold sleeping and not to be rude, do as the Swiss army does sleep in the nude to allow blood circulation and get damp clothing off. I’ve wandered the wilds of Nv and climbed the sierras and Rockies for decades. You’ll sleep better.
Tami says
I am Swiss!
You are probably right, a big part of the issue was I was probably damp from the rain.
At my age, usually I’m roasting from hot flashes.;)
RIck Bostian says
Wow, what a coincidence, I was in Kingston over the weekend, actually I’m buying a house there. I was up at the Toquima Cave CG a couple of weeks ago, it’s about 8500 ft if I’m not mistaken (no wonder you got cold). I’m so looking forward to discovering some of the other locations you pointed out in this newsletter. I’ll be 74 yrs old in a few weeks and do all, or most, on an electric motorcycle, may run into each other out on the trails someday. Take care and keep exploring 🙂
Tami says
Were you at the fire department BBQ? We stopped by for a little bit but the line for the BBQ was so long we moved on.
I knew the elevation was high bu didn’t think we were at 8500′.
Did you see my other article on the area? I have a lot of places around Tonopah and Belmont but don’t have them all in one palce.
https://nvtami.com/index.php/2023/07/16/camping-with-stan-paher-take-2/
Rick Bostian says
Yes, I was at the Fire Dept BBQ in Kingston, GREAT food, great folks and great raffles and auctions. The food line was long but well worth the wait, and there was tri-tip left over, they BBQ-ed over 250 lbs of meat.
Rechecked the altitude of the CG at Taquima Cave and it is 7900 ft, so I was a little off, but that’s still high during a storm like came through over the weekend.
You are SO Fortunate to have met Stan Paher, one of my personal heroes.
I’m trying to keep up with your exploring, but you really rock … eventually I’ll catch up, eh? 😉 Keep up the great adventures and letting us (your fans) know where they are 🙂
Tami says
I’m sorry I missed you. I would have loved to stay but we got such a late start that day. And, more issues with the Jeep so we were really behind. The raffle items were the best I have seen. \
I am very fortunate to call Stan a friend and mentor, he is such an amazing man.
I’m trying to keep up with my travels too!
Anonymous says
THANKS AGAIN, I LOOK SO FORWARD TO YOU ARTICLES.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL
Tami says
Thank you Bill!
Gary says
Happy Birthday! This is an interesting trip. As for Black Rock, isn’t Spencer Tracy’s ghost still wandering around out there looking for Komoko?
Tami says
Thank you. And you never know, that would make an interesting story!
Kurt says
A belated happy birthday, Tami, and thank you for your excellent tales of travel with the history of all.
When our offroad group visited Kingston some time back we noticed a sign near a runway denoting it to be the “Kingston International Airport”, to the amusement of some who were commercial pilots. They all agreed they need to check the GPS next time they’re at work and ask the FAA for the inclusion!
Happy trails, Tami and Safe Travels always.
Tami says
Thank you, I decided I’m celebrating for at least 50 days.
Haha, I meant to go back and get a picture of “Kingston International Airport.”