1 Jeep, 2 explorers, 3 days, 30 ghost towns… and 2 rattlesnakes (Part II)

We last left our heroine fifteen-ghost towns into a three-day trip. After tripping and flying through the air, she was slightly battered and bruised in body and ego. Distraction is the best medicine, so we pushed on with spectacular ghost towns.

Eureka Mine

Still limping after my fall, it was nice to have an easy site to explore. Eureka Mine has a snow shed that connects the cabin to the adit. Rails used for ore carts run into the hillside.

I value my life too much to explore the mine, so I took photos from the entrance.

Fun Find

We stumbled on this great site, figuratively and literally.

Driving between the sites, we noticed this brick building on the side of the road. I took another fall here; thankfully, it wasn’t as bad as the first time. There are no details on the structure, but it used square head nails, dating to the late 1800s.

Sometimes I find cool things just driving around. I am always watching for linear shapes and square corners. They rarely occur in nature, so watch for the pattern.

Ruby Hill

Our last stop in the Eureka area was Ruby Hill. I stopped to take a picture from across the hill of the mill and heard a strange noise. I thought Honey Badger had something loose (again), then realized multiple drill rigs were operating at our destination, Ruby Hill.

Ruby Hill was established in the 1870s as it was closer to the mines than Eureka. The town increased to an astounding two thousand five hundred residents. It had everything a person could want, stores, hotels, restaurants, and a railroad linking to Eureka.

With a drop in mining activity, Ruby Hill declined in the 1880s but had a revival in the early 1900s. The resurgence lasted until a thunderstorm washed out the railroad in 1910.

We were able to explore part of the town, but most had active mining right in the middle of things. Even the mills that were farther out were blocked off. I know mining is needed, both economically and for resources, but it is sad that it is right in the middle of a ghost town.

Rogue Wheat Paste Installation

Ruby Hill has a unique outdoor museum. Deon Reynolds and his wife installed large format images of local families in structures around Eureka. The art is bio-degradable and will fade over time. You can learn more about the project at Nevada Humanities.

Guadalajara/Sante Fe

Like Guadalajara, some of Nevada’s ghost towns are on private property and not accessible without permission. Austin made calls to gain access, but we had not heard back when we left for our trip.

Austin received a call as we enjoyed breakfast at Eureka Depot, getting ready to head out for a day of ghost towns. He almost didn’t answer as he didn’t recognize the number. At the last minute, he replied, and the caller owned the ranch which encompasses Guadalajara. Thank you to Ralph and the Young Ranch for granting us access to explore and document this amazing ghost town!

Following ore discovery by miners from Mexico, the Sante Fe District was organized in 1863. Guadalajara was plated in early 1864, making it one of the oldest ghost towns. The town boomed and soon had 150 people. However, mines quickly played out with the population declining. Guadalajara was abandoned by 1890.

According to author and friend Shawn Hall, in his book Ghost Towns & Mining Camps of Nye County, Nevada, residents were concerned about attacks and built rifle ports in some structures. This is the first time I have seen the ports in houses.

Please respect private property and do not visit without permission.

Kingston

The day was growing late, and we debated our priorities. We wanted to visit Clinton and Geneva but decided it would be more productive to visit the Kingston area. Kingston is primarily new construction but has the remains of the 1866 Sterling Mill.

Unfortunately, the timing of our visit was poor, and I was fighting the sun. Nevertheless, I had fun playing with the street sign for Wineglass Way. Austin said this Tami in a picture, Jeep, ghost town, and wine!

Bunker Hill/Victorine

Miners made multiple ore discoveries in 1863 above Kingston, but the mining district was not established until 1864. A small settlement grew, but Kingston remained the main population center. Mines were worked sporadically until 1887.

Bunker Hill was difficult to access; the stone cabin was surrounded by thick brush across the river. The mine was on the hillside, a few thousand feet up. So we sent in the drones to get pictures.

Old Daniel Ranch

I don’t have any information on this little gem yet. The ranch is part way up the beautiful Kingston Canyon. I want to come back in the fall when I can take the pass to Reese River and see the fall colors.

Austin

We headed to Austin to rest up for the night before heading back to Northern Nye County. Austin isn’t joking about needing a bigger bucket list; there is so much to do in the area. And I’ll take this type of social distancing any day.

I won’t make jokes about our hotel; a single-wide split into four hotel rooms. But any hotel that has the DMV seal of approval must be ok 😉 Sorry, I had to make one joke.

I was a little apprehensive about Austin’s choice of Austin hotels. But, all Jokes aside, Cozy Mountian Motel was cozy. It must have the same owners as Grandma’s restaurant, where I had a delicious rib-eye Ceasar salad. The room was clean and had a comfortable bed and great bedding and towels. I didn’t steal the bath mat, but I thought about it.

I was surprised by how quiet my room was. Except for the Harley’s, that departed at o’dark hundred, but that is no fault of the hotel.

Stokes Castle

We made one more stop on the way to end the night, Stokes Castle. I have photographed and written about Stokes Castle, but I was hoping for a stunning sunset photo. Unfortunately, there was no purple or red sunset, but it is always fun to see the 1896 structure.

Ophir Canyon

We woke early, pleasantly rested. After grabbing a healthy gas station breakfast, we headed out for our final day of ghost towns. Our main destinations were my bucket list of Ophir Canyon and Park Canyon.
Gold was discovered in Ophir Canyon in 1863, and the following year a 2-stamp mill was erected.

Multiple mining companies mined the claims and processed the ore. Ophir struggled through declines and revivals but was worked through 1925 with mining exploration into the 1980s.

Ophir Canyon has spectacular ruins, including a large mill, furnace, multiple cabins, and store facades. I look forward to working on photos and researching the amazing ghost town.

Ophir was interesting to reach. It wasn’t a technically difficult road, but through a narrow canyon overgrown with wild rose bushes. On the way out, we ran into a couple in a truck who asked if the road was worth it, absolutely!

Tate’s station

We made a quick stop to see Tate’s Station from a distance. Many of the ranches started life as station stops. Thomas Tate established his station on the Austin to Belmont Toll Road 1886-1901, and it became the center of social life in the area. Ester state started the first school in the region.

Park Canyon

Out of all the ghost towns we visited, it would be Park Canyon if I had to pick a favorite. The 1867 La Plata Mining Company built a large mill with locally quarried stone. The mill operated for two years, then sporadically for a few years.

The mill is spectacular! I could have spent all day exploring it, even after my run-in below. After I finish my article on Santa Rosa, Park Canyon is my priority.

SNAKES…WHY’D IT HAVE TO BE SNAKES?

(Indiana Jones)

The only negative was my fun with two “friends” at Park Canyon. I was exploring the ruins, being careful where I stepped. Finally, I came through a window to get inside. I looked where I was putting my hands, butt, and feet; I sat on the ledge and landed on the dirt below. A second later, I hear…

Bzzzzzzzzzz

I froze; the only thing that moved was my brain saying, “Oh, Sh…”

A rock wall was to my back, a large rock pile to my left, and a vast open dirt area in front. I didn’t know where the snake was, but I knew it wasn’t in front of me.

Since I started ghost towning more, I wondered if I would be able to hear a rattlesnake. Unfortunately, I have Ménière’s disease and am deaf in my left ear. My question was answered, yes, I can hear the rattle, which is very distinct. However, I didn’t consider was as my hearing loss is one-sided; I can’t localize sound. I knew the rattler was somewhere behind me, but no more.

I called, “Austin,” and he replied, “I heard it.” Before he could finish saying “don’t move,” I was airborne, leaping for the clearing. My long jump would have impressed an Olympic athlete, I had no idea I could jump that far.

Finally, safe on my little life raft of bare dirt, I turned around. We never did find the snake; it either slithered off or found a cubby in the rocks. After my heart rate recovered, I explored the ruins even more carefully.

A contrast of white and brown, and the coiled shape, caught my attention. Momma or Daddy, rattlesnake, may have moved on, but they left Baby.

Later, people asked what we did with the snake. I told them it tried to tempt me with an apple, but I knew how that story turned out, so I left.

Lower Park Canyon

Pueblo sprung up not long after Park Canyon, but the town quickly faded. That was until a man’s remains and gold pan were discovered in 1905 next to the river. Prospectors panned the location and found a high content of gold. After that, Pueblo again sprung to life, with several mining companies working most of the claims. The second Pueblo grew to 500 inhabitants but was abandoned a second time as the gold was quickly depleted.

I’m not sure how much longer the old ore bin will survive

Millet

Millett ranch was initially established in 1873 and then purchased by Mike Millett in 1896. Like many of the ranches in Smoky Valley, Millett served as station stops on the toll road between Eureka and Belmont. Following local ore discoveries, the town of Millett was planned.

The small settlement did not last long, but the post office and a store continued to operate into the 1930s.

Minninums

Minnunums was another station stop on the stage line. It was started in 1862 by Abraham Minnimum on his ranch. At its height, the population was only twenty-five. The station stop was abandoned in the early 1900s.

Austin

We made a few more stops around Austin when we headed home from Big Smoky Valley.

Gridley Store

Gridley opened his store 1863. Austin remembers Gridley for his bet, which resulted in a sack of flour auction. Again and again, the flour was auctioned, resulting in $275,000 raised for the precursor to the Red Cross.

International Hotel

The International Hotel was built in Virginia City in 1859. In 1863, the hotel’s original section was relocated to Austin, making it the first commercial structure in the new town. We enjoyed lunch before our last push home.

Mount Airy

Mount Airy was a stage station for the Overland Mail and possibly by the Pony Express. The station operated into the 1890s.

Close to the station is a long grave of Mrs. Franklin. She was the station keeper’s wife and died of smallpox in 1869.

Warm Springs & Peterson’s Mill

Local rancher and station owner, Peter Peterson, relocated a mill from Austin to process ore from New Pass mines.

The ruins are on a private ranch, so we photographed from the fenceline.

New Pass Station & Old New Pass Station

Are you confused already? It took me a while to realize New Pass is a range. There are two Overland Mail stations: New Pass and Old New Pass. Clear as a bell now?

New Pass Station

New Pass Station may also be known as Castle Rock Station. It was built in the mid-1860s to replace Old New Pass Station. The newer station site is behind a fence, likely as it sits on the shoulder of Highway 50.

Old New Pass Station

The original New Pass Station was built in the early 1860s by the Overland Mail Company. However, the old New Pass Station has more significant remains, and you can explore it.

Tired Explorers

As Austin was driving, I hopped out to open the gates. The one into Old New Pass was tight with a barbed wire sticking out where I needed to grasp the gate. Austin jumped out to help. We struggled and finally got the gate in place.

We smiled and congratulated each other. Then looked down at the gate between us. Whoops. It was a much-needed laugh at the end of the day, but we were both ready to head home.

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