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Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave

May 18, 2020 3 Comments

Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave

John “Snowshoe” Thompson

Snowshoe Thompson is known as the “Viking of the Sierras” and the father of skiing in the Sierras.

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County
Snowshoe Thompson
(Photo credit: Snowbrains)

Snowshoe was born in Norway on April 30, 1827, with the name Jon Torsteinsson Rue. He later changed his name to John Albert Thompson. In 1837 when John was ten, his family immigrated to Missouri.

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County
(Photo credit: Visit Carson Valley)

In 1851 John drove a herd of dairy cows to California. He settled in Placerville, California, mined for a brief period, then purchased a ranch in Sacramento Valley. Snowshoe then homesteaded a 160-acre ranch in Diamond Valley, California, at the south end of Carson Valley. Legend says he found a gold vein visible from his house, but searchers have never located the mine.

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Diamond Valley

Mail delivery over the Sierras

Between 1856 and 1876, Snowshoe Thompson delivered mail across the Sierras from Placerville, California, to Genoa, Nevada. He later added trips to Virginia City, Nevada.

Genoa

A round trip took Snowshoe Thompson five days of travel, two days of skiing going west, and three days for the return trip. He made the round trip two to four times a month on a consistent schedule. Snowshoe carried not only mail but also clothing, books, tools, medicine, and supplies like cookware. His pack could weigh up to 100 pounds a trip.

Despite the name “Snowshoe,” he used cross-country skis and a single pole. He skied with no blanket or gun due to their weight.

Genoa Main Street

Snowshoe delivered the first silver ore mined from the Comstock Lode in Virginia City. He was also known for rescuing injured settlers by obtaining medication.

Nevada’s Oldest Thirst Parlor

Snowshoe may have frequented the Genoa Bar, “Nevada’s Oldest Thirst Parlor.” It is still a fun place to hang out and enjoy a drink and live music.

Snowshoe Thompson’s cabin site, Diamond Valley

Snowshoe married Agnes Singleton in 1866. They had one child, Arthur Thomas, in 1867; for his son’s first birthday, he made Arthur his first set of skis. After that, Snowshoe taught his son and community members how to ski.

Cave System

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County Cave Hope Valley
Snowshoe Thomson’s Cave in Alpine County, California

Snowshoe Thompson had a series of caves he would use during bad weather. This cave is in Alpine County, not far from his ranch in Diamond Valley. The cave is surprisingly large. Soot from past fires still marks the ceiling.

Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave and soot markings

No pay

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County Statue Genoa Park
Snowshoe Thompson statue in Genoa, Nevada

Snowshoe delivered mail for 20 years without pay. In 1871 Snowshoe was a delegate to the state Republican convention in Sacramento, California. A resolution was sent to Washington, DC, to reimburse him for his postal service. Despite the resolution and Snowshoe traveling to Washington, DC in 1872, he never received payment for mail delivery.

Genoa Cemetery

John Snowshoe Thompson died on May 15, 1876, of an infection from a ruptured appendix. He is buried in the Genoa Cemetery.

Following his death, Snowshoe’s wife married into the Scossa ranching family. The Scossa family still ranches in Carson Valley and are friends of ours.

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County headstone Genoa Cemetery

It took Snowshoe’s widow Agnes nine years to be able to erect the beautiful marble headstone on his grave.

Note the lack of a “P” in Snowshoe’s last name. There is debate as to the reason for the misspelling. Some think the engraver made a spelling error. Another group claims Snowshoe’s widow had limited writing ability and made a mistake in her order. A third group says Snowshoe used both variations of the name. We will likely never know the reason, but it is an interesting historical side note. Official documents, including Snowshoe’s Certificate of Citizenship and personal letters he wrote, clearly have his name spelled Thompson.

Following Agnes’s death in 1915, the grave site fell into disrepair. In 1924 a local girl took it upon herself to clean and maintain the grave. Later the care was taken up by other local children. After a rumored attempt to steal Snowshoe’s headstone, the children raised funds to have the grave set in concrete.

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The Snowshoe Thompson statue in Genoa at Mormon Station was dedicated in 2001. The Snowshoe Thompson Ski and Snowshoe Celebration occur annually in Lake Tahoe.

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County Statue Genoa Park
Snowshoe Thompson Statue in Genoa

Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave

Snowshoe Thompson’s Alpine County cave lies on the Carson Route of the Emigrant Trail. Pioneers used this trail as an alternative to the higher altitude Donner Pass. Over 150 years later, you can still see the wagon road and markings the wagons left on the rocks.

Wagon Trail and markings Carson Emigrant Trail

Today it is an easy hike to visit Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave. The trailhead is off Highway 88, between Woodfords and Wylder resorts. The hike is 0.7 miles out and back.

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It makes a nice day combined with Hope Valley, Markleeville Cave, or hiking in Alpine County. I was fortunate to visit the cave with a friend and historian, Stephen, and his wife, Patty. Hubby and I rounded out our day with a trip to Silver Mountain City Ghost Town at the base of Ebbetts Pass.

For size comparison, I’m 5’8″
Trail markers

A few weeks later, I led a hike for the kids with my friend Jen. In the same morning, we had snow and wildflowers. One of the flowers was growing out of the granite top of Snowshoe’s Cave!

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County Flowers on Cave
Wildflowers on top of Snowshoe’s Cave
Hike to the Cave

I also found a rock by the cave marked by an emigrant 171 years ago! A pioneer wrote the name and date in axle grease. It is almost impossible to see unless the rock is shadowed.

Snowshoe Thompson Genoa Nevada Historic Photo Apline County emigrant markings
“Rogers Aug. 28, 49”

Geocache

In May, I led two trips for Trails West following the Carson River Route, and we stopped at the Genoa Cemetery. One of the attendees noticed this geocache at Snowshoe Thompson’s grave. The mail truck has to be one of the most fitting geocaches ever.


References

  • Carson Valley Historical Society. Snowshoe Thompson. 1991. Pages 1-36.
  • Fey, Marshall. Emigrant Trails: The Long Road to California, A history and Guide to the Emigrant Routes from Central Nevada to Crossing the Sierra. Nevada Publication, 2019. Pages 157-158.
  • Miluck, Nancy C. Nevada This is our Land: A survey from Prehistory to Present. Dragon Enterprises, 1994. Pages 41-42.
  • Snow Brains: The Most Legendary Skier in California History? | “Snowshoe Thompson”
  • Snowshoe Thompson: The Story…Snowshoe Thompson “Viking of the Sierra”
  • Tortorich, Frank Jr. Gold Rush Trail: A guide to the Carson River Route of the Emigrant Trail. Wagon Wheel Tours, 1998. Pages 14-22.
  • Travel Notes and Beyond: The Legend of Snowshoe Thompson, Lake Tahoe’s First Mailman
  • Visit Carson Valley: “Snowshoe” Thompson – The Mailman of the Sierra
  • Wikipedia: Snowshoe Thompson
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Comments

  1. Stephen Knight says

    May 19, 2020 at 7:59 am

    It was a great trip. Patty and I enjoyed it and meeting you and Hubby very much and look forward to further adventures. Excellent and interesting article. And very well thought chronicles of your photography.

    Thank you

    Stephen and Patty Knight

    Reply
  2. Sara Maul says

    July 21, 2023 at 1:25 pm

    Very interesting and fun history of Snowshoe
    Thom (p?) son! We’re so glad to know about this site!
    Thank you. Hubby and I look forward to learning more about Nevada history!

    Reply
    • Tami says

      July 21, 2023 at 2:29 pm

      Thank you, it is a nice hike to see lots of history. I need to update the article, I hope to find a few more hidden gems.

      Reply

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Hi, I’m Tami. I have been exploring Nevada and Eastern Sierra ghost towns and historical sites for 25 years. My goal is to photograph and document the rich history of the area. If you love seeing and learning about the more unusual ghost towns and locations, you have come to the right place! Follow along as my Jeep, Honey Badger, and I work towards our objective of visiting every ghost town in the region!

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